Ultralight
TrueWood Lite
Solid Oak & Walnut
Solid Bamboo
Paint-Ready
How sound works · 7 min read
Wood slat ceilings and walls for camper vans and RVs
Why van and RV builders choose ULTRALIGHT for ceilings and walls: 9mm thin, light, flexible and soft overhead. Plus how to install it on furring strips or plywood.
//Slatted · The Slats.co journal
Notes from the people who make the panels.
Install guidesRoom ideasBuying guides14 posts
Guides, room ideas and straight answers about slat walls: how they’re made, which one fits your room, and how they go up.
How to install Step by step, from the first panel to the last.
Start here
New to slat walls? Start here.
Five posts that answer most questions before you buy, cut or hang a thing.
Installation
How to install slat wall panels
Every cut, screw, corner and outlet, for every Slats line: the way we’d do it ourselves.
Read the guideInstallation16 min read
Buying guides
Wood slats vs foam
Introduction Choosing the right acoustic treatment for your space can be challenging, especially when faced with...
Read the guideBuying guides2 min read
Buying guides
Ready-made panels vs DIY
When it comes to enhancing the aesthetics and acoustics of a space, acoustic wood slat panels...
Read the guideBuying guides3 min read
Care & materials
Caring for your panels
Introduction Once you've made the investment in wood slat acoustic panels, it's important to know how...
Read the guideCare & materials2 min read
Why //Slatted
Every post is written by the people who make the panels, from real installs and the questions customers actually ask, so you get straight answers before you buy, cut or hang a thing.
Written by our own teamAnswers to real customer questionsGuides room ideas & trade notesQuestions? a real person writes back
New to slat walls? Start with the install guide. Working on a commercial job? Our trade team can help with quantities and samples.
All posts
Every //Slatted post
14 posts
14 posts
Rooms & ideas · 2 min read
Elevating Home Cinemas with Wood Slat Acoustic Panels: A Guide to Supreme Sound Quality
A home cinema can be the ultimate leisure space for movie lovers. However, the room's acoustics play a significant role in the overall...
Rooms & ideas · 2 min read
Acoustics for Open-Plan Offices: How Wood Slat Acoustic Panels Are Revolutionizing the Workspace
Open-plan offices have gained popularity for fostering collaboration and efficient use of space. However, they come with a significant drawback—noise pollution. This article...
Rooms & ideas · 2 min read
Acoustics in Fine Dining: Why Wood Slat Acoustic Panels Are a Game-Changer for Restaurants
The ambiance of a fine dining restaurant goes beyond the aesthetics and the quality of food—it also includes the acoustic environment. Unwanted noise...
Care & materials · 2 min read
Eco-Friendly Choices: The Sustainability of Wood Slat Acoustic Panels
As the conversation around climate change and sustainability grows louder, consumers are increasingly looking for eco-friendly options in every aspect of life, including...
How sound works · 2 min read
Do wood slat acoustic panels work? How they soften echo
Wood slat panels soften echo and reverb inside a room. Here is how the felt, the gaps and the wood work together, and why they are not soundproofing.
How sound works · 2 min read
Are wood slat panels fire rated? What to check before you order
Our slat panels are not fire rated. Here is who usually needs a rating, how to check before you order, and what to do around a fireplace or stove.
Care & materials · 2 min read
Maintenance Matters: How to Properly Care for Your Wood Slat Acoustic Panels
Once you've made the investment in wood slat acoustic panels, it's important to know how to maintain them to ensure they remain effective...
Installation · 2 min read
Five Key Places to Install Wood Slat Acoustic Panels
You’ve made the decision to improve your room's acoustics and visual appeal with wood slat acoustic panels—a smart choice. However, determining where to...
Buying guides · 2 min read
Wood Slat vs. Foam: The Acoustic Battle
Choosing the right acoustic treatment for your space can be challenging, especially when faced with various material options like wood slats and foam....
Buying guides · 3 min read
Comparing the Cost Benefits: Prefabricated Acoustic Wood Slat Panels vs. DIY Installation
When it comes to enhancing the aesthetics and acoustics of a space, acoustic wood slat panels are a popular choice. However, deciding between purchasing...
Installation · 16 min read
How to install slat wall panels: the complete guide
Every cut, screw, corner and outlet, for every Slats line: the way we’d do it ourselves.
Care & materials · 2 min read
Exploring the Materials of Wood Slat Acoustic Panels: Enhancing Spaces Sustainably
Wood slat acoustic panels have emerged as a go-to solution for enhancing both aesthetics and acoustics in interior spaces. These panels not only elevate...
Buying guides · 10 min read
Which wood slat panel is right for you? A buyer's guide
ULTRALIGHT, TrueWood Lite, Solid or Paint-Ready? Compare the four Slats lines side by side, then answer five quick questions to find the wall panel that fits your room.
No posts match. Clear filters
Plan your wall
How many boxes do I need?
Enter your wall width and pick your ceiling height. We’ll work out the boxes and price for each line (shown in white oak).
Ceiling height
Volume discounts available on 9, 10 and 12 ft panels.
Rounded up to whole boxes for one wall at full panel height. Add a box if you'll cut around windows or doors.
See the difference
Put them side by side, at home
Reading is one thing. Order samples of each line and compare the real wood and felt on your own wall.
Shop all samples
Installation
How they go up
Pick your line for the steps, or download the full guide as a PDF.
Trim-head screws, adhesive or both
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and work out how many boxes you need. Start at the most visible corner and draw a plumb line.
- Fix the first panel
Trim-head screws through the felt in the outermost groove at each edge, rows no more than 30″ apart (a bugle or pan head is too wide and sits proud). Or construction adhesive, or both.
- Butt the next panel up
Each end carries half a V-groove. Push until the 45° chamfers seat and the two halves close into one full groove that matches the rest. No lip, no overhang.
- Curves and columns
No rigid core, so Ultralight bends across the slats around curves and columns. Use adhesive and start from the tightest part of the curve.
You'll need
- Drill / driver (cordless is best)
- Trim-head screws
- Construction adhesive, instead of or as well as screws
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure
- Stud finder or wall anchors
- Sharp utility knife (does both cuts)
- Fine-tooth saw blade (optional)
Cutting tips
- A utility knife and a straight edge are all you need. Score along the line, and a few passes give a splinter-free edge.
- Practice on an offcut first. It's easy to drift off a straight line.
- Cutting several panels? A circular saw is faster. Put painter's tape on the cut line and use a fine-tooth blade with 60+ teeth.
- Sizing the felt only? A razor blade does it.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw, multi-tool or sharp utility knife all work.
Construction adhesive only
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and work out how many boxes you need. Start at the most visible corner and draw a plumb line.
- Fix with construction adhesive
One continuous S-bead on the felt back, about 2″ in from every edge. Adhesive only: a screw head is wider than the 3mm reveal.
- Butt the next panel up
Each edge has a 1.5mm chamfer, so two panels close into one 3mm shadow reveal. If a join looks wider than the rest, push until the chamfers seat.
- Pin it (optional)
Finishing nails pin a panel while the adhesive takes. The head seats down in the reveal and disappears.
You'll need
- Construction adhesive, rated for wood
- Caulk gun
- Finishing nails, to pin a panel while it grabs
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure and straightedge
- Fine-tooth blade, for the veneer face
- Utility knife, for the felt
No screws on Wide or Accent.
Cutting tips
- A fine-tooth blade goes through the veneer face, a sharp utility knife through the felt. The face is too wide for a knife alone.
- Run painter's tape along the cut line before you saw, so the veneer edge stays clean and doesn't chip.
- Wide: cut down the middle of a reveal and the new edge matches a factory one.
- Accent: a cut edge comes out square, so land it in a corner, behind trim or against a cabinet.
- Cutting to height? Cut from the bottom, so the factory edge stays at the top.
- Practice on an offcut first.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw, multi-tool or sharp knife all work.
Acclimate, then adhesive, screws or both
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat. Don't stand them on end.
- Lead with the lip
Each panel has a bare felt lip on one edge and an overhanging slat on the other. Face every lip the way you're working.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or #6 screws (1–1.5″, trim-head for the cleanest look) through the felt in the second gap in from each edge, rows no more than 24″ apart. Or both for extra hold.
- Lap the next panel
Lower each new panel so its overhanging slat drops over the last panel's felt lip. The felt butts flush and the gap at the join matches the gaps between slats.
You'll need
- Drill / driver (cordless is best)
- #6 screws, 1–1.5″ (trim-head for a cleaner look)
- Construction adhesive, instead of or as well as screws
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure
- Stud finder or wall anchors
- Track, circular or hand saw with a fine-tooth blade
- Utility knife, for felt cuts
Cutting tips
- Cut to length with a track, circular or hand saw and a fine-tooth blade. Cut to width by slicing the felt in a gap with a utility knife: whole slats come away, no saw needed.
- Run painter's tape across the face and down the slat sides on the cut line, since the veneer can chip.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back every 10–13″. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Offcut slats lift off the felt and make matching trim for corners and edges.
- Corners: at an outside corner hold the panels back 17mm on the lapped side and 12mm on the other; at an inside lap, 5mm.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw or multi-tool through the slats, a utility knife through the felt.
Acclimate, then adhesive, screws or both
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat. Don't stand them on end.
- Lead with the lip
Each panel has a bare felt lip on one edge and an overhanging slat on the other. Face every lip the way you're working.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or #6 or #8 screws (1.5–2″, trim-head) through the felt in the second gap in from each edge, rows no more than 24″ apart. Or both for extra hold. Save the flattest panels for the most visible spots.
- Lap the next panel
Lower each new panel so its overhanging slat drops over the last panel's felt lip, so the gap at the join matches the gaps between slats.
- If a slat bows
Put construction adhesive behind the panel and drive a trim-head screw through the felt gap right beside the bowed slat, into a stud or solid backing. Brace it while the adhesive cures.
- Corners
Hold the panel back 13mm at an outside corner and 6.5mm at an inside corner.
You'll need
- Drill / driver (cordless is best)
- #6 or #8 screws, 1.5–2″ (trim-head for a cleaner look)
- Construction adhesive, instead of or as well as screws
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure
- Stud finder or wall anchors
- Track, circular or hand saw with a fine-tooth blade
- Utility knife, for felt cuts
Cutting tips
- Cut to length with a track, circular or hand saw and a fine-tooth blade. Cut to width by slicing the felt in a gap with a utility knife: whole slats come away, no saw needed.
- Run painter's tape along the cut line before you saw, so the face doesn't splinter at the edge of the cut.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back every 10–13″. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Don't rip a slat lengthwise. Lift off a slat instead.
- At corners, hold the panel back rather than trimming the felt lip: 13mm at an outside corner, 6.5mm at an inside corner.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw or multi-tool through the slats, a utility knife through the felt.
Glue, press, nail, then paint
- Settle and plan
Give the boxes a day lying flat in the room. Measure the wall and work out how many boxes you need.
- Glue
Lay the panel face-down and run one continuous S-bead down the back, about 2″ in from every edge. It goes straight onto drywall, plaster or timber, no battens.
- Press
Press it to your plumb line and brace it until the adhesive grabs. Slat profile: hang every panel the same way round, or the joins will show. Ridge and Valley can go either way.
- Nail
Finishing nails into the low point of the profile, never a face or a peak. Set the heads, fill and sand flush. Fill and sand Valley joins too.
- Paint
Two thin coats. Spray is best. On Valley, brush the scoops first, because a roller bridges them.
You'll need
- Construction adhesive, rated for wood and your wall
- Caulk gun
- Finishing nails
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Handsaw or jigsaw with a fine-tooth blade
- Filler and sandpaper, for nail holes and Valley joins
- Caulk, where the run meets trim
- Roller, brush or sprayer, for the paint
Cutting tips
- Cut face up with a handsaw or jigsaw, face down with a circular saw, so any breakout lands on the back.
- Run painter's tape along the cut line before you saw, so the primed face doesn't chip at the edge.
- Rip at a low point and the new edge still butts cleanly to the next panel. Back it up: only 0.06″ of board sits there.
- A cut edge is raw MDF: prime it before painting.
- Keep the sheen low so the profile's shadow carries.
- Outlets and switches: use a jigsaw.