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Walnut Slat Wall Panels
Three levels of walnut: the light, flexible walnut tone of Ultralight, real American walnut veneer on TrueWood Lite, and solid American walnut milled all the way through. Here's how they differ, so you can pick the one that fits your space.
Deep & warm A rich brown that adds warmth without closing in the room.
5 walnut profiles
Compare walnut slat panels
From the flexible walnut tone of Ultralight to solid walnut milled all the way through. Only Solid goes up to 12 ft.
Ultralight Slat
Real wood veneer stained a walnut tone, on 9mm acoustic felt. No rigid core, so it bends.
Shop Ultralight Slat
Ultralight Wide
The same flexible walnut-tone build, cut into three broad faces with a 3mm shadow reveal.
Shop Ultralight Wide
Ultralight Accent
One continuous walnut-tone face on felt. Real wood, wall to wall, with nothing cut into it.
Shop Ultralight Accent
TrueWood Lite
Individual rubberwood-core slats wrapped in real American walnut veneer on 3 sides.
Shop TrueWood Lite
Solid Series
13mm solid American walnut, milled all the way through. Low-satin finish, square-cut edges.
Shop Solid Series
Why walnut
American black walnut is the wood of heirloom furniture and fine cabinetry: chocolate-brown heartwood and a straight, open grain that can turn wavy or curly, so no two walls look the same.
Solid Series is solid walnut all the way through, sealed with 3 coats of polyurethane. TrueWood Lite wraps each slat in real walnut veneer. Ultralight is real wood veneer stained to a walnut tone.
All walnut
Shop every walnut panel
Not sure on the color?
See it in your own light
Sample kits from $15. See the real wood and felt at home.
Shop sample kits
Not sure on the color?
See it in your own light
Sample kits from $15. See the real wood and felt at home.
Shop sample kits
Plan your wall
How many boxes do I need?
Enter your wall width and pick your ceiling height. We'll work out the boxes and price for each line.
Volume discounts available on 9, 10 and 12 ft panels.
Rounded up to whole boxes for one wall at full panel height. Add a box if you'll cut around windows or doors.
See the difference
Put all five side by side, at home
Veneer and solid walnut catch the light differently. Order the samples and compare them on your own wall.
Shop all samples
Installation
How they go up
Pick your line for the steps, or download the full guide as a PDF.
Trim-head screws, adhesive or both
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and work out how many boxes you need. Start at the most visible corner and draw a plumb line.
- Fix the first panel
Trim-head screws through the felt in the outermost groove at each edge, rows no more than 30″ apart (a bugle or pan head is too wide and sits proud). Or construction adhesive, or both.
- Butt the next panel up
Each end carries half a V-groove. Push until the 45° chamfers seat and the two halves close into one full groove that matches the rest. No lip, no overhang.
- Curves and columns
No rigid core, so Ultralight bends across the slats around curves and columns. Use adhesive and start from the tightest part of the curve.
You'll need
- Drill / driver (cordless is best)
- Trim-head screws
- Construction adhesive, instead of or as well as screws
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure
- Stud finder or wall anchors
- Sharp utility knife (does both cuts)
- Fine-tooth saw blade (optional)
Cutting tips
- A utility knife and a straight edge are all you need. Score along the line, and a few passes give a splinter-free edge.
- Practice on an offcut first. It's easy to drift off a straight line.
- Cutting several panels? A circular saw is faster. Put painter's tape on the cut line and use a fine-tooth blade with 60+ teeth.
- Sizing the felt only? A razor blade does it.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw, multi-tool or sharp utility knife all work.
Construction adhesive only
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and work out how many boxes you need. Start at the most visible corner and draw a plumb line.
- Fix with construction adhesive
One continuous S-bead on the felt back, about 2″ in from every edge. Adhesive only: a screw head is wider than the 3mm reveal.
- Butt the next panel up
Each edge has a 1.5mm chamfer, so two panels close into one 3mm shadow reveal. If a join looks wider than the rest, push until the chamfers seat.
- Pin it (optional)
Finishing nails pin a panel while the adhesive takes. The head seats down in the reveal and disappears.
You'll need
- Construction adhesive, rated for wood
- Caulk gun
- Finishing nails, to pin a panel while it grabs
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure and straightedge
- Fine-tooth blade, for the veneer face
- Utility knife, for the felt
Cutting tips
- A fine-tooth blade goes through the veneer face, a sharp utility knife through the felt. The face is too wide for a knife alone.
- Run painter's tape along the cut line before you saw, so the veneer edge stays clean and doesn't chip.
- Wide: cut down the middle of a reveal and the new edge matches a factory one.
- Accent: a cut edge comes out square, so land it in a corner, behind trim or against a cabinet.
- Cutting to height? Cut from the bottom, so the factory edge stays at the top.
- Practice on an offcut first.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw, multi-tool or sharp knife all work.
Acclimate, then adhesive, screws or both
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat. Don't stand them on end.
- Lead with the lip
Each panel has a bare felt lip on one edge and an overhanging slat on the other. Face every lip the way you're working.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or #6 screws (1–1.5″, trim-head for the cleanest look) through the felt in the second gap in from each edge, rows no more than 24″ apart. Or both for extra hold.
- Lap the next panel
Lower each new panel so its overhanging slat drops over the last panel's felt lip. The felt butts flush and the gap at the join matches the gaps between slats.
You'll need
- Drill / driver (cordless is best)
- #6 screws, 1–1.5″ (trim-head for a cleaner look)
- Construction adhesive, instead of or as well as screws
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure
- Stud finder or wall anchors
- Track, circular or hand saw with a fine-tooth blade
- Utility knife, for felt cuts
Cutting tips
- Cut to length with a track, circular or hand saw and a fine-tooth blade. Cut to width by slicing the felt in a gap with a utility knife: whole slats come away, no saw needed.
- Run painter's tape across the face and down the slat sides on the cut line, since the veneer can chip.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back every 10–13″. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Offcut slats lift off the felt and make matching trim for corners and edges.
- Corners: at an outside corner hold the panels back 17mm on the lapped side and 12mm on the other; at an inside lap, 5mm.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw or multi-tool through the slats, a utility knife through the felt.
Acclimate, then adhesive, screws or both
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat. Don't stand them on end.
- Lead with the lip
Each panel has a bare felt lip on one edge and an overhanging slat on the other. Face every lip the way you're working.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or #6 or #8 screws (1.5–2″, trim-head) through the felt in the second gap in from each edge, rows no more than 24″ apart. Or both for extra hold. Save the flattest panels for the most visible spots.
- Lap the next panel
Lower each new panel so its overhanging slat drops over the last panel's felt lip, so the gap at the join matches the gaps between slats.
- If a slat bows
Put construction adhesive behind the panel and drive a trim-head screw through the felt gap right beside the bowed slat, into a stud or solid backing. Brace it while the adhesive cures.
- Corners
Hold the panel back 13mm at an outside corner and 6.5mm at an inside corner.
You'll need
- Drill / driver (cordless is best)
- #6 or #8 screws, 1.5–2″ (trim-head for a cleaner look)
- Construction adhesive, instead of or as well as screws
- 4 ft level or a laser, and a pencil
- Tape measure
- Stud finder or wall anchors
- Track, circular or hand saw with a fine-tooth blade
- Utility knife, for felt cuts
Cutting tips
- Cut to length with a track, circular or hand saw and a fine-tooth blade. Cut to width by slicing the felt in a gap with a utility knife: whole slats come away, no saw needed.
- Run painter's tape along the cut line before you saw, so the face doesn't splinter at the edge of the cut.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back every 10–13″. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Don't rip a slat lengthwise. Lift off a slat instead.
- At corners, hold the panel back rather than trimming the felt lip: 13mm at an outside corner, 6.5mm at an inside corner.
- Outlets and switches: a jigsaw or multi-tool through the slats, a utility knife through the felt.