Ultralight
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Solid Bamboo
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White Oak Slat Wall Panels
Three levels of white oak: the light, flexible white oak tone of Ultralight, real white oak veneer on TrueWood Lite, and solid American white oak milled all the way through. Ultralight is the lightest of the three.
Light & warm A pale, honey-toned oak that keeps a room bright.
5 white oak profiles
Compare white oak slat panels
From the flexible white oak tone of Ultralight to solid American oak milled all the way through. Only Solid goes up to 12 ft.
Ultralight Slat
Real wood veneer stained a white oak tone, our lightest oak, on 9mm felt. It bends.
Shop Ultralight Slat
Ultralight Wide
The same flexible white-oak-tone build, cut into three broad faces with a 3mm shadow reveal.
Shop Ultralight Wide
Ultralight Accent
One continuous white-oak-tone face on felt. Real wood, wall to wall, with nothing cut into it.
Shop Ultralight Accent
TrueWood Lite · Natural Oak
Individual rubberwood-core slats wrapped in real white oak veneer on 3 sides.
Shop TrueWood Lite
Solid American Oak
13mm solid American white oak, milled all the way through. Low-satin finish, square-cut edges.
Shop Solid Oak
Why white oak
White oak is the wood behind wide-plank floors, heirloom furniture and whiskey barrels: a pale, honey-toned heartwood with a straight, even grain that works with almost any palette, from bright Scandinavian whites to warm modern.
Solid Series is solid American white oak all the way through, sealed with 3 coats of polyurethane. TrueWood Lite wraps each slat in real oak veneer. Ultralight is real wood veneer stained to a white oak tone, and reads the lightest of the three.
All white oak
Shop every white oak panel
Not sure on the color?
See it in your own light
Sample kits from $15. See the real wood and felt at home.
Shop sample kits
Not sure on the color?
See it in your own light
Sample kits from $15. See the real wood and felt at home.
Shop sample kits
Plan your wall
How many boxes do I need?
Enter your wall width and pick your ceiling height. We'll work out the boxes and price for each line.
Volume discounts available on 9, 10 and 12 ft panels.
Rounded up to whole boxes for one wall at full panel height. Add a box if you'll cut around windows or doors.
See the difference
Put them side by side, at home
The white oak tone of Ultralight reads lighter than real and solid white oak. Order the samples and compare them on your own wall.
Shop all samples
Installation
How they go up
Pick your line for the steps, or download the full guide as a PDF.
Wood screws or construction adhesive
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and work out your boxes with the calculator above.
- Fix the first panel
Wood screws (#6 or #8, 1.5–2″) through the felt between the slats, with trim-head screws for the cleanest look. Or use construction adhesive.
- Butt the next panel up
Each end carries half a V-groove, so two panels close into one full groove that matches the rest. No lip, no overhang.
- Curves and columns
No rigid core, so Ultralight bends around curves and columns as it goes up.
You'll need
- Tape measure and level
- #6 or #8 wood screws, 1.5–2″ (trim-head)
- Or construction adhesive
Cutting tips
- A utility knife and a straight edge are all you need. Score along the line, and a few passes give a splinter-free edge.
- Practice on an offcut first. It's easy to drift off a straight line.
- Cutting several panels? A circular saw is faster. Put painter's tape on the cut line and use a fine-tooth blade with 60+ teeth.
- Sizing the felt only? A razor blade does it.
- Cutouts for light switches and outlets: use a jigsaw.
Construction adhesive only
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and use the box calculator above.
- Fix with construction adhesive
Adhesive only: the 3mm shadow reveal can't seat a screw head.
- Butt the next panel up
Each edge has a 1.5mm chamfer, so two panels form one 3mm shadow reveal.
- Optional: finishing nails
Once panels are joined, finishing nails can go down the middle of the shadow reveal.
You'll need
- Tape measure and level
- Construction adhesive
- Finishing nails (optional)
Cutting tips
- A utility knife and a straight edge are all you need. Score along the line, and a few passes give a splinter-free edge.
- Practice on an offcut first. It's easy to drift off a straight line.
- Cutting several panels? A circular saw is faster. Put painter's tape on the cut line and use a fine-tooth blade with 60+ teeth.
- Sizing the felt only? A razor blade does it.
- Cutouts for light switches and outlets: use a jigsaw.
Acclimate, then adhesive or screws
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat. Don't stand them on end.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or screws placed discreetly between the slats.
- Lap the next panel
One edge has a felt lip; on the other, the last slat overhangs. Lay the overhang over the next panel's lip and the seam gap matches the gaps between slats.
You'll need
- Tape measure and level
- Construction adhesive
- Or screws (placed between slats)
Cutting tips
- Use a track saw or circular saw. A table saw works too.
- Run painter's tape across the face and down the slat sides on the cut line, since the veneer can chip.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Offcut slats lift off the felt and make matching trim for corners and edges.
- Cutouts for light switches and outlets: use a jigsaw.
Acclimate, then adhesive or screws
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or trim-head screws through the felt gap: one or the other. Save the flattest panels for the most visible spots.
- If a slat bows
Fasten it at the high point with construction adhesive plus a trim-head screw through the felt gap. This is the only time you use both.
- Lap the next panel
The last slat overhangs the felt and laps the next panel's felt lip, so there's no open seam: the gap at the join matches the gaps between slats.
- Corners
Set the panel back 13mm on outside corners and 6.5mm on inside corners.
You'll need
- Tape measure and level
- Construction adhesive
- Or trim-head screws
Cutting tips
- Use a track saw or circular saw.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back every 10–13″. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Don't rip a slat lengthwise. Lift off a slat instead.
- At corners, hold the panel back rather than trimming the felt lip: 13mm at an outside corner, 6.5mm at an inside corner.
- Cutouts for light switches and outlets: use a jigsaw.