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Grey Oak Slat Wall Panels
Two ways to get grey oak: the light, flexible grey oak tone of Ultralight, or individual slats wrapped in real oak veneer on TrueWood Lite.
Soft grey A cool, driftwood-grey oak that keeps an entry bright and calm.
3 grey oak options
Compare grey oak slat panels
Every grey oak panel side by side, to scale, plus TrueWood Lite in Dark Grey Oak for a deeper tone.
Ultralight Slat
Real wood veneer stained a grey oak tone, on 9mm felt. It bends.
Shop Ultralight Slat
TrueWood Lite
Individual rubberwood-core slats wrapped in real oak veneer on 3 sides, finished grey.
Shop TrueWood Lite
TrueWood Lite Dark Grey Oak
Individual rubberwood-core slats wrapped in real oak veneer on 3 sides, finished dark grey.
Shop TrueWood Lite Dark Grey Oak
Why grey oak
Grey oak is oak with the warmth pulled back: a soft, weathered grey that keeps the real wood grain showing through. It sits easily with white walls, concrete and cool-toned rooms, where a warm wood can look too yellow.
TrueWood Lite wraps each slat in real oak veneer, finished grey. Ultralight is real wood veneer stained to a grey oak tone.
All grey oak
Shop every grey oak panel
Not sure on the color?
See it in your own light
Sample kits from $30. See the real wood and felt at home.
Shop sample kits
Not sure on the color?
See it in your own light
Sample kits from $30. See the real wood and felt at home.
Shop sample kits
Plan your wall
How many boxes do I need?
Enter your wall width and pick your ceiling height. We'll work out the boxes and price for each line.
Volume discounts available on 9, 10 and 12 ft panels.
Rounded up to whole boxes for one wall at full panel height. Add a box if you'll cut around windows or doors.
See the difference
Put them side by side, at home
Order the samples and compare them on your own wall, in your own light.
Shop all samples
Installation
How they go up
Pick your line for the steps, or download the full guide as a PDF.
Wood screws or construction adhesive
- Plan the wall
Measure the wall and work out your boxes with the calculator above.
- Fix the first panel
Wood screws (#6 or #8, 1.5–2″) through the felt between the slats, with trim-head screws for the cleanest look. Or use construction adhesive.
- Butt the next panel up
Each end carries half a V-groove, so two panels close into one full groove that matches the rest. No lip, no overhang.
- Curves and columns
No rigid core, so Ultralight bends around curves and columns as it goes up.
You'll need
- Tape measure and level
- #6 or #8 wood screws, 1.5–2″ (trim-head)
- Or construction adhesive
Cutting tips
- A utility knife and a straight edge are all you need. Score along the line, and a few passes give a splinter-free edge.
- Practice on an offcut first. It's easy to drift off a straight line.
- Cutting several panels? A circular saw is faster. Put painter's tape on the cut line and use a fine-tooth blade with 60+ teeth.
- Sizing the felt only? A razor blade does it.
- Cutouts for light switches and outlets: use a jigsaw.
Acclimate, then adhesive or screws
- Acclimate 48–72 hours
Unbox and lay the panels flat on the floor of the room they're going in, out of the packaging and away from direct sun and heat. Don't stand them on end.
- Fix it
Construction adhesive, or screws placed discreetly between the slats.
- Lap the next panel
One edge has a felt lip; on the other, the last slat overhangs. Lay the overhang over the next panel's lip and the seam gap matches the gaps between slats.
You'll need
- Tape measure and level
- Construction adhesive
- Or screws (placed between slats)
Cutting tips
- Use a track saw or circular saw. A table saw works too.
- Run painter's tape across the face and down the slat sides on the cut line, since the veneer can chip.
- Slats are stapled to the felt from the back. Line your cut up to miss the staples, and re-staple any slat that comes loose.
- Offcut slats lift off the felt and make matching trim for corners and edges.
- Cutouts for light switches and outlets: use a jigsaw.